Stephen Tanzer's

Winophilia

There’s a fundamentalist fervor these days about “natural” winemaking. This seems to me a disturbing trend, given the temperature of the rhetoric being tossed around on some wine chat boards.

For those who have missed the current tempest in a wine bottle, here are a number of the key elements of natural winemaking: No acid or sugar additions (or de-acidification). Exclusive use of native yeasts. No use of enzymes to extract or stabilize color and tannins. No sulfur additions. Minimal racking. No filtration. Little or no new oak. READ MORE »

January 12th, 2012 | 5 comments

In the course of my tastings each year of thousands of new wine releases for the International Wine Cellar, I run into plenty of great values. But no other country offers as many as Spain does, or with such consistency. READ MORE »

January 9th, 2012 | no comments

Italy’s pinot bianco (called pinot blanc in France and weissburgunder in Germany) is arguably the best in the world. Aside from some excellent examples from Germany, nowhere else does the variety reach the level of purity and precision it does in northeastern Italy. A mutation of pinot grigio (which is in turn a mutation of pinot noir), pinot bianco is more floral, steely and mineral-driven than pinot grigio, which can be surprisingly fleshy and rich in its resiny, honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors. READ MORE »

January 6th, 2012 | no comments

Why should you care? There’s a race to the bottom going on these days with Argentine malbec pricing (remember low-end shiraz from Australia?). Tasting cheap malbecs can be a tedious exercise, with too many wines plagued by crude oak, distinctly overripe or underripe flavors, or dry tannins. But smart wine consumers continue to pay a few bucks more for malbecs of real depth and character: concentrated, balanced wines that in terms of sheer flavor impact outperform just about anything else available in their price range. We’ll offer much more coverage of malbec in the coming weeks, but here’s a foretaste.

What does it taste like? Renacer’s Punto Final Reserva Malbec is a stunning value in vintage 2008, displaying musky aromas and flavors of crushed blackberry and licorice complicated by spices and pepper, and a sweet, remarkably deep palate impression. This very young but already lush and pliant wine has more than enough stuffing to support its ripe, building tannins. Italian consulting enologist Alberto Antonini, who works his magic for a number of topnotch Argentine producers, serves as assistant winemaker here.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $20; Winebow.

 

January 4th, 2012 | 2 comments