Winophilia

Adventurous winemakers and wine lovers are increasingly exploring “orange wines”—i.e., wines made from white varieties that pick up color (and tannins) from extended maceration of the freshly crushed juice on the grape skins (think Gravner, Radikon, Edi Kante, Wind Gap, Scholium Project, etc.). Do you use these wines in your program? If not, why not? If you do, how do you pair them with food, and what are your favorite producers and bottlings?

Jake Kosseff, Company Wine Director, Wild Ginger (Seattle). At Wild Ginger we love orange wines: the complexity and depth that extended skin contact provides for whites is often a treat. But they aren’t always a perfect fit for our restaurant, so we are very careful in our choices. Many of these wines also have pronounced oxidative character (i.e., nutty, caramelly, even occasionally volatile or vinegary notes) that aren’t delicious with the clean, bright flavors that are the building blocks of Southeast Asian cuisine. We have had some great luck in Friuli in Italy, and just over the border in Gorska Brda in Slovenia. Usually it’s a matter of choosing wine by wine (even vintage by vintage) rather than by producer. When we do have this type of wine on our list, we pair it with dishes that have rich, straightforward flavors, rather than dishes that have lots of vinegar, spice or fruitiness. READ MORE »

Why should you care? When it comes to southern Rhône wines, collectors, sommeliers and, yes, wine writers tend to focus most of their attention on Châteauneuf du Pape, whose wines are among the most prestigious of France. But savvy enophiles have long known that great wines are also made in some of the appellations that surround Châteauneuf, particularly Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The dominant variety in both villages is grenache, just as in Châteauneuf, but the wines are typically more elegant and less brawny than those of their famous neighbor—and a lot less expensive. They also tend to be approachable sooner after release than most Châteauneufs, which is great news for drinkers looking for quick gratification.

What does it taste like? Domaine Le Couroulu’s wines are always among the most stylish and vibrant examples of Vacqueyras, and they have the balance to age too, if you’re the patient type. Their entry-level 2009, from an excellent vintage across the Rhône Valley, shows spicy red and black fruit flavors, a silky texture and uncommon complexity for its price.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $21; Russell Herman/World Wine Source; Adventures in Wine

Issue 160 of the International Wine Cellar, published yesterday, leads off with extensive coverage of the 2010 red Burgundies, one of the most exciting vintages for these wines of my professional lifetime. The new issue also highlights the superb 2010s and 2009s from the southern Rhône Valley and Germany’s 2010 vintage. For as little as $19.95 for a two-month subscription, you get immediate and unlimited access to the current issue, as well as to the easily searchable and sortable IWC data base of nearly 90,000 tasting notes.

Whatever you normally spend on a bottle, the International Wine Cellar will help you become a smarter consumer and drink better wine.

Here’s what you’ll find in the massive new issue: READ MORE »

As a follow-up to my recent post about “natural winemaking,” I asked our esteemed panel of winemakers for their views on the role of sulfur dioxide in making and raising wines.

“Natural winemaking” is an issue of great interest these days to many consumers, not least because many wine journalists, retailers and sommeliers are touting its benefits. But they also may be tolerating wine flaws that might have been prevented by judicious use of sulfur dioxide. What do YOU view as the most important role of sulfur products in the winemaking and aging process—IF there is one?

Brian O’Donnell, Belle Pente (Oregon). It may be stating the obvious, but for me the role of SO2 is to avoid the aforementioned flaws that are often apparent in “no added sulfites” wines. These flaws result from oxidation and undesirable microbial activity that, as you say, can easily be inhibited by a moderate dose of sulfites at bottling. Although I embrace the philosophical intent of “no added sulfites” wines, I am not willing to compromise quality for the dubious perceived benefits of following that path. READ MORE »