As most serious winos know by now, especially those who follow the Bordeaux market, sweet wines from vintage 2009 have garnered mostly rave reviews. Numerous chateaus have raised their prices significantly, in line with many red wine producers in the greater Bordeaux area. But wine lovers with a yen for Sauternes would do well to take a close look at the 2007s, most of which are now available in the marketplace. READ MORE »
Many sommeliers enjoy unwinding with a beer after a full workday spent talking about wine with clients, matching wines to dishes, tasting wine, drinking wine….wine, wine, wine. Can you tell us your favorite beer these days, and what you like about it? Don’t feel that it needs to be a high-falutin’ beer either; if your favorite place serves cold Schlitz on tap and that’s what you gravitate toward, then say so. And don’t hesitate to provide some very brief background info on your selection or a short tasting note.
Belinda Chang, Wine Director, The Modern (New York City). Growing up in the suburbs of Chicago, my two favorite books were from Jay McInerney’s pre-wine writer days: Bright Lights, Big City and Story of My Life. I dreamed of living the fast life in New York City and demanding that all potential boyfriends stock their refrigerators with Amstel Light and Cristal for me like the character in the later book. READ MORE »
A few years ago, I published tasting notes in the International Wine Cellar on a superb set of sakés imported by Vine Connections, an importer based in Sausalito, CA that also specializes in wines from Argentina. As a preface to those notes, I offered a fairly detailed introduction to saké, covering such subjects as how it’s made, types of saké and how to serve it. I thought I’d update this essay for Winophilia readers.
Saké, sometimes referred to as Japanese rice wine, is actually a brewed product made more like beer. The best artisanal sakés are very pure products made from just four basic ingredients: premium saké rice, pure water, hand-made koji and special yeasts. But note that there are an almost infinite number of combinations of rice varieties, water sources and yeasts, and many styles of sake can be created from the same brewed tank. There are saké brewers in virtually every prefecture of Japan; historically, they were established near sources of pure water: mountain streams (sometimes running underground), melted snow (as on Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido), natural springs (often featuring water high in mineral content), deep wells, and the like. READ MORE »
Why should you care? New Zealand’s ocean-influenced climate—markedly cooler than that of its neighbor Australia—is ideal for the production of wines with intense fruit and crisp acidity. White wines, especially sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, dominate exports to the U.S. But the country’s rieslings are also varietally accurate and delicious. In spite of their normally brisk acidity, they are rarely austere or difficult to enjoy in their youth; in fact, many of these wines are softened by some residual sugar. Spy Valley’s wines are flamboyantly supple, fruit-driven and user-friendly.
What does it taste like? Spy Valley’s premium Envoy range comes from specific vineyard sites within the greater family estate. Their 2007 riesling, made from Germanic clones, is in a silky, sweeter style (think German spätlese) but with perfect balancing acidity. It offers the distinctly fusel quality shown by many top rieslings from Germany, Australia and elsewhere, along with concentrated apricot and passion fruit flavors, exotic brown spices and a suggestion of honeyed richness. This compellingly pure and immediately appealing wine makes a perfect aperitif—or try it with fresh scallops or sweet and sour Asian dishes.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $35; Broadbent Selections.
