Winophilia: Winophilia Picks

Domaine Le Couroulu 2009 Vacqueyras Cuvée Classique

Josh Raynolds — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 09:25:06 +0000

Why should you care? When it comes to southern Rhône wines, collectors, sommeliers and, yes, wine writers tend to focus most of their attention on Châteauneuf du Pape, whose wines are among the most prestigious of France. But savvy enophiles have long known that great wines are also made in some of the appellations that surround Châteauneuf, particularly Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The dominant variety in both villages is grenache, just as in Châteauneuf, but the wines are typically more elegant and less brawny than those of their famous neighbor—and a lot less expensive. They also tend to be approachable sooner after release than most Châteauneufs, which is great news for drinkers looking for quick gratification.

What does it taste like? Domaine Le Couroulu's wines are always among the most stylish and vibrant examples of Vacqueyras, and they have the balance to age too, if you’re the patient type. Their entry-level 2009, from an excellent vintage across the Rhône Valley, shows spicy red and black fruit flavors, a silky texture and uncommon complexity for its price.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $21; Russell Herman/World Wine Source; Adventures in Wine

Renacer 2008 Punto Final Reserva Malbec Mendoza

Stephen Tanzer — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 09:54:46 +0000

Why should you care? There’s a race to the bottom going on these days with Argentine malbec pricing (remember low-end shiraz from Australia?). Tasting cheap malbecs can be a tedious exercise, with too many wines plagued by crude oak, distinctly overripe or underripe flavors, or dry tannins. But smart wine consumers continue to pay a few bucks more for malbecs of real depth and character: concentrated, balanced wines that in terms of sheer flavor impact outperform just about anything else available in their price range. We’ll offer much more coverage of malbec in the coming weeks, but here’s a foretaste.

What does it taste like? Renacer’s Punto Final Reserva Malbec is a stunning value in vintage 2008, displaying musky aromas and flavors of crushed blackberry and licorice complicated by spices and pepper, and a sweet, remarkably deep palate impression. This very young but already lush and pliant wine has more than enough stuffing to support its ripe, building tannins. Italian consulting enologist Alberto Antonini, who works his magic for a number of topnotch Argentine producers, serves as assistant winemaker here.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $20; Winebow.

Antucura 2007 Calcura Vista Flores Mendoza

Stephen Tanzer — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 09:51:03 +0000

Why should you care? Along with Napa Valley cabernet and Marlborough sauvignon blanc, Mendoza malbec is one of the most widely recognized “brands” among American wine drinkers. But there’s a downside to such marketing success. First off, virtually every Argentine wine producer and his hermano now make malbec, and too many of these wines have become generic and interchangeable. Meanwhile, the large shadow cast by malbec in the marketplace is hiding the growing success of Argentina’s cabernet and cabernet-based wines, which are better now than ever before--especially when they're from the favored Uco Valley, as the Antucura example is.

What does it taste like? Antucura’s 2007 Calcura bottling, a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 20% malbec, offers assertive aromas of blackberry, cassis, menthol and licorice, lifted by a violet topnote. It’s juicy, intense and serious, with tightly knit, sharply delineated flavors of dark fruits, spices and truffle and a vibrant, long finish featuring a suave dusting of tannins. A difficult flowering resulted in a particularly small crop in ’07, and the result is a vintage with unusual concentration of flavor. By the way, globetrotting enologist Michel Rolland serves as consulting winemaker here.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $20 (Southern Starz)

Alta Vista 2011 Premium Torrontés Salta

Stephen Tanzer — Wed, 07 Dec 2011 09:27:00 +0000

Why should you care? Torrontés, Argentina's most distinctive white variety, yields captivating light-bodied, scented wines that make perfect aperitifs and pair well with a range of first courses. These generally dry and delicate wines, usually made without any contact with oak, remind me a bit of viognier with a perfumed hint of muscat: they're mostly dry to bone-dry, crisp yet slightly chewy, and dominated by aromas and flavors of stone and citrus fruits, soft spices, mint and flowers.

What does it taste like? Although torrontés is produced in Mendoza, Argentina’s most important wine region by a wide margin, many of the finest examples come the high-altitude vineyards of the Salta province, in the country’s extreme northwest. The example from Alta Vista offers delicate aromas of white flowers and curry powder followed by a tactile, saline mouth feel, with hints of gingery spices and bright acidity giving definition to its subtle tropical fruit flavors. The finish is sappy, elegant and persistent. This smooth torrontés has the acidity and pungent character to work well with spicier Asian, Indian or Mexican dishes.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $16; Buena Cepa Wines.

The Ojai Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County

Josh Raynolds — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:36:41 +0000

Why should you care? Adam Tolmach helped to kickstart California's Central Coast wine industry when he and Jim Clendenen founded the Au Bon Climat winery in 1982. Tolmach has long been committed full-time to his own Ojai Vineyard winery, where he makes a wide range of elegant wines from some of the most renowned vineyards in the region. Most of his bottlings are hotly pursued by wine lovers who prize lively, precise renditions of New World chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. From two of those vineyards, Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills, both in Santa Barbara County, Tolmach makes this chardonnay, which is sourced from younger vines and delivers the Ojai style at a bargain price.

What does it taste like? Bright, focused and fragrant, this chardonnay offers an array of floral and citrus fruit qualities that are the hallmark of the region. Tolmach says that his aim is always to make focused, graceful wines with little excess fat, and the 2009 vintage gave him fruit that was perfectly suited to his style.

How much does it cost? $26.

Elio Grasso 2008 Barbera d’Alba Vigna Martina

Stephen Tanzer — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 10:17:41 +0000

Why should you care? Barbera from Italy's Piedmont region is among the most flexible, food-friendly red wines made anywhere, complementing everything from pizzas and tomato-based pastas to richer meat dishes to salty cheeses. This penetrating wine, which relies almost entirely on its acidity for structure (the barbera grape is low in tannins), is generally ready to enjoy on release but has the ability to mellow and gain in complexity with time in bottle, particularly the more ambitious versions made in oak casks or smaller French barrels. Many of the finest barberas come from top producers of Barolo and Barbaresco, who enjoy drinking barbera on an everyday basis while reserving their more serious and expensive nebbiolo wines for special occasions.

What does it taste like? The Grasso family's Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina, froma vines close their their top Barolo vineyard in Monforte d'Alba, is aged in new and once-used French barriques for 15 months, then held in bottle for at least a year before being released. The 2008 version offers highly perfumed aromas and flavors of red fruits, flowers and spicy oak. It's fine-grained and suave, with perfectly harmonious acidity and a strong floral component giving definition to the pliant middle palate. This very stylish barbera finishes with smooth tannins and subtle lingering perfume.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $35; Sussex Wine Merchants.

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2010 Chablis

Stephen Tanzer — Mon, 24 Oct 2011 09:21:53 +0000

Why should you care? It's hard to find a better warm-weather thirst-quencher than crisp, minerally Chablis. But it's in the cooler "R" months (September through April), after the summer spawning season has ended, that oysters, clams and other shellfish are generally at their best in North America. That calls for Chablis, the classic examples of which come from soil rich in fossilized oyster shells. Village Chablis is my choice, as premier and especially grand cru bottlings can be too intense for delicate sea creatures. And village-level wines are cheap enough to enjoy on a regular basis.

What does it taste like? The village Chablis from father-and-son team Christian and Fabien Moreau is one of my perennial favorites in this category. Their bottling from the cooler 2010 growing season offers scents of lemon drop, grapefruit and mint. It's high-pitched and vibrant on the palate, with a captivating ripeness leavened by firm acidity and soil-driven saline and crushed stone character.

How much does it cost and where can you find it? $25; Frederick Wildman & Sons.

Talley Vineyards 2010 Bishop’s Peak Chardonnay Central Coast

Josh Raynolds — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 10:00:48 +0000

Why should you care? Talley Vineyards has long been one of the most reliable sources for graceful—some would say "Burgundian"—chardonnays and pinot noirs from California's Central Coast. Brian Talley, who oversees his family's vineyards and winery, aims for power and elegance, and the winery has a loyal following of savvy sommeliers and wine lovers around the world. Talley's entry-level line, Bishop's Peak, displays the finesse and energy that is Talley' house style at a remarkably fair price. In fact, these wines compare favorably to those of many of Talley's neighbors at a fraction of the price.

What does it taste like? Two thousand ten was a cool year in the Central Coast, "a Talley vintage," according to Brian Talley. The 2010 Bishop's Creek chardonnay is a racy, precise, impressively complex wine that displays lively floral and citrus flavors and also possesses sneaky depth and power. It drinks well all by itself but has the stuffing to work with richer foods like roasted or grilled chicken.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $15.

Soos Creek Wine Cellars 2008 Champoux Vineyard Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills

Stephen Tanzer — Fri, 07 Oct 2011 09:49:53 +0000

Why should you care? The irrigated semi-desert of eastern Washington State produces cabernet-based wines with terrific definition of fruit and juicy acidity—wines midway in style between the very rich, high-octane reds of California and the more soil-driven, Old World examples produced in Bordeaux. Happily, virtually no Washington wines yet approach California’s cult cabernets in price, and there are many stunning values to be found. Soos Creek’s Dave Larsen has been flying under the radar for far too long. His cabernets, made in an elegant, classical style, are consistently excellent, and their retail prices are ridiculously low.

What does it taste like? The Soos Creek Champoux Vineyard bottling, a Bordeaux blend based on 77% cabernet sauvignon, displays accurate varietal aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, black olive and bitter chocolate. It's glossy, sweet and highly concentrated, conveying a sappy impression of extract and broad, supple tannins. The long, mounting finish suggests that this wine will enjoy a long and graceful evolution in the bottle. Incidentally, if you can't track down a bottle, the 2008 Artist Series #8 is nearly as good and it's three bucks cheaper. These prices are insane.

How much does it cost? $33.

Vietti 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco

Stephen Tanzer — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 10:00:37 +0000

Why should you care? While many nebbiolo bottlings on the market come from sites that are not entitled to produce Barolo or Barbaresco and are bottled within a year or so of the harvest and intended to offer early appeal, some producers make a more serious, structured style. The Nebbiolo d’Alba Ochetti of Renato Ratti, featured here last week, is in the former style: an elegant, perfumed wine made from sandy soils in the Roero hills north of Barolo. Vietti’s Nebbiolo Langhe Perbacco, on the other hand, includes juice from numerous Barolo crus and is bottled in the third year after the harvest. It’s a chewier version of nebbiolo but is still far less tannic than the Barolos bottled by Vietti.

What does it taste like? The 2008 Nebbiolo Perbacco (perbacco means “wow” or “surprise” in the local dialect) offers enticing earthy scents lifted by cherry, rose and an exotic hint of peach, along with nuances of leather, smoke, menthol and minerals. Its sweet fruit is nicely balanced by bright acidity, which gives definition and lift to the middle palate. The juicy finish leaves behind complex saline, earthy and floral notes.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $25; Dalla Terra.