Winophilia

Why should you care? Known barely a decade ago for tired, often overoaked, rusty-looking white wines, Spain has become a rich source for lively whites. Most bracing are those from the country’s cooler, Atlantic-influenced northwest, especially from Rueda and Rías Baixas. In Rueda the verdejo variety rules, although the region has long been planted to sauvignon blanc as well. (These grapes share a strong affinity and are often blended.)  Verdejo typically shows bright lemon and lime character, with notes of herbs, white flowers and minerals. These mostly oak-free wines are at their best in the year immediately after release.

What does it taste like? This textbook Rueda verdejo, a classic version from an unusually warm vintage, offers zesty lime, grapefruit and ginger character, with a strong undercurrent of minerals. Its fresh citrus qualities make it delicious on its own and compatible with a range of hot-weather foods, especially vegetables and simply prepared fish. Make sure you buy a little extra because this wine has a habit of evaporating around thirsty people.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $14; Olé Imports.

Why should you care? New Zealand’s ocean-influenced climate—markedly cooler than that of its neighbor Australia—is ideal for the production of wines with intense fruit and crisp acidity. White wines, especially sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, dominate exports to the U.S. But the country’s rieslings are also varietally accurate and delicious. In spite of their normally brisk acidity, they are rarely austere or difficult to enjoy in their youth; in fact, many of these wines are softened by some residual sugar. Spy Valley’s wines are flamboyantly supple, fruit-driven and user-friendly.

What does it taste like? Spy Valley’s premium Envoy range comes from specific vineyard sites within the greater family estate. Their 2007 riesling, made from Germanic clones, is in a silky, sweeter style (think German spätlese) but with perfect balancing acidity. It offers the distinctly fusel quality shown by many top rieslings from Germany, Australia and elsewhere, along with concentrated apricot and passion fruit flavors, exotic brown spices and a suggestion of honeyed richness. This compellingly pure and immediately appealing wine makes a perfect aperitif—or try it with fresh scallops or sweet and sour Asian dishes.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $35; Broadbent Selections.

Why should you care? Corton-Charlemagne, which can technically come from several grand cru vineyards on the Corton hill, has often been described as a white wine for red wine lovers. With its youthfully austere citrus, green apple and spice flavors, steely minerality and powerful acid spine, the best examples need at least six to eight years to mature in bottle and are capable of long life. Bouchard’s nearly nine acres of chardonnay vines in the high-altitude, limestone-rich Le Corton climat benefit from good air movement and a southeast exposure, allowing the house to pick healthy grapes with full ripeness and firm acidity. Previously an underperformer, Bouchard’s Corton-Charlemagne has become one of the most consistently exciting white Burgundies over the past decade. And it’s cheap for a topnotch grand cru white.

What does it taste like? The 2008 seduces with its ineffable scents of violet, lavender, lemon, crushed rock, mint, cinnamon and ginger. Though youthfully tight, there’s already compelling perfume and lift to its deep citrus, spice and mineral flavors. As in recent vintages, it’s explosively rich yet somehow weightless—and long on personality even in its youth.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $122; Henriot Inc.

Why should you care? The Bandol region of Provence is the gold standard for rosé, with the best wines combining deep, energetic fruit, a strong mineral core, and complex floral and herbal qualities. Bandol rosé is also among the most food-friendly of wines, especially with the kinds of edibles we crave in the summertime. Unfortunately, most Bandol rosés have crept up to, or beyond, the $30 mark, making the Bastide Blanche example a serious value. And 2009 is one of the best vintages for this category in years.

What does it taste like? The Bastide Blanche offers a compelling blend of chalky minerality, red fruit notes and intense floral character, with a bright spiciness providing added lift.  This rosé  is deep in flavor but with no excess fat, which makes it extremely flexible with food. Think grilled fish, chicken or vegetables, with lots of garlic and herbs. And don’t worry about losing a bottle or two of this juice in your cellar, as the wine will actually improve with a couple years of bottle age.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it?  $22; Weygandt-Metzler Importing.