Winophilia

Why should you care? When it comes to southern Rhône wines, collectors, sommeliers and, yes, wine writers tend to focus most of their attention on Châteauneuf du Pape, whose wines are among the most prestigious of France. But savvy enophiles have long known that great wines are also made in some of the appellations that surround Châteauneuf, particularly Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The dominant variety in both villages is grenache, just as in Châteauneuf, but the wines are typically more elegant and less brawny than those of their famous neighbor—and a lot less expensive. They also tend to be approachable sooner after release than most Châteauneufs, which is great news for drinkers looking for quick gratification.

What does it taste like? Domaine Le Couroulu’s wines are always among the most stylish and vibrant examples of Vacqueyras, and they have the balance to age too, if you’re the patient type. Their entry-level 2009, from an excellent vintage across the Rhône Valley, shows spicy red and black fruit flavors, a silky texture and uncommon complexity for its price.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $21; Russell Herman/World Wine Source; Adventures in Wine

Why should you care? There’s a race to the bottom going on these days with Argentine malbec pricing (remember low-end shiraz from Australia?). Tasting cheap malbecs can be a tedious exercise, with too many wines plagued by crude oak, distinctly overripe or underripe flavors, or dry tannins. But smart wine consumers continue to pay a few bucks more for malbecs of real depth and character: concentrated, balanced wines that in terms of sheer flavor impact outperform just about anything else available in their price range. We’ll offer much more coverage of malbec in the coming weeks, but here’s a foretaste.

What does it taste like? Renacer’s Punto Final Reserva Malbec is a stunning value in vintage 2008, displaying musky aromas and flavors of crushed blackberry and licorice complicated by spices and pepper, and a sweet, remarkably deep palate impression. This very young but already lush and pliant wine has more than enough stuffing to support its ripe, building tannins. Italian consulting enologist Alberto Antonini, who works his magic for a number of topnotch Argentine producers, serves as assistant winemaker here.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $20; Winebow.

Why should you care? Along with Napa Valley cabernet and Marlborough sauvignon blanc, Mendoza malbec is one of the most widely recognized “brands” among American wine drinkers. But there’s a downside to such marketing success. First off, virtually every Argentine wine producer and his hermano now make malbec, and too many of these wines have become generic and interchangeable. Meanwhile, the large shadow cast by malbec in the marketplace is hiding the growing success of Argentina’s cabernet and cabernet-based wines, which are better now than ever before–especially when they’re from the favored Uco Valley, as the Antucura example is.

What does it taste like? Antucura’s 2007 Calcura bottling, a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 20% malbec, offers assertive aromas of blackberry, cassis, menthol and licorice, lifted by a violet topnote. It’s juicy, intense and serious, with tightly knit, sharply delineated flavors of dark fruits, spices and truffle and a vibrant, long finish featuring a suave dusting of tannins. A difficult flowering resulted in a particularly small crop in ’07, and the result is a vintage with unusual concentration of flavor. By the way, globetrotting enologist Michel Rolland serves as consulting winemaker here.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $20 (Southern Starz)

Why should you care? Torrontés, Argentina’s most distinctive white variety, yields captivating light-bodied, scented wines that make perfect aperitifs and pair well with a range of first courses. These generally dry and delicate wines, usually made without any contact with oak, remind me a bit of viognier with a perfumed hint of muscat: they’re mostly dry to bone-dry, crisp yet slightly chewy, and dominated by aromas and flavors of stone and citrus fruits, soft spices, mint and flowers.

What does it taste like? Although torrontés is produced in Mendoza, Argentina’s most important wine region by a wide margin, many of the finest examples come the high-altitude vineyards of the Salta province, in the country’s extreme northwest. The example from Alta Vista offers delicate aromas of white flowers and curry powder followed by a tactile, saline mouth feel, with hints of gingery spices and bright acidity giving definition to its subtle tropical fruit flavors. The finish is sappy, elegant and persistent. This smooth torrontés has the acidity and pungent character to work well with spicier Asian, Indian or Mexican dishes.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $16; Buena Cepa Wines.