Fans of Old World pinot noir, specifically Burgundy, have long turned their noses up at California’s attempts to master this notoriously finicky variety, and for years their disdain was mostly justified. Unlike the aromatically complex, delicate renditions of pinot for which Burgundy is known, the majority of California pinots were heavy, distinctly dark-fruity, often dull and seldom very complex. Too often they showed too much oak, too much alcohol, too much earthy character, or, frequently, a weedy, herbal component. The reasons for this, most would agree, were that (a) too much pinot was planted in hot areas where it didn’t belong, which makes for low-acid wines without nuance or real aromatic potential, and (b) it was being made extractively, as if it were cabernet sauvignon, which unlike pinot can take some manhandling. Simply put, too much California pinot was a bad imitation of the genuine article. READ MORE »
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For our coverage in the International Wine Cellar, Josh Raynolds and I each taste more than 10,000 wines a year, including major quantities of the world’s swankiest examples. On my 17-day Burgundy tour last month, for instance, I was lucky enough to sample the exciting, fleshy 2009s from barrel as well as the more classic 2008s from bottle, and I’d estimate the total street value of the wines I tasted at about $200,000. Needless to say, when Josh and I aren’t tasting for review purposes, we can’t afford these bottles any more than you can. READ MORE »
Sulfur is an evil little word when it comes to wines these days, but the fact is, most people who condemn wine for its sulfur content and perceived potential harmful effects just don’t know what they’re talking about. Natural or sulfur-free wines are not the panacea for all ills—and many of these wines are lousy, flawed and give little pleasure to consumers. READ MORE »
Of the three main parameters by which wine is judged–color, smell and taste—it is color that most people, including wine experts, pay least attention to. In fact, some very famous 100-point scales for scoring wines only attribute 10 points for color. This is a big mistake. Color can tell you a great deal about a wine’s origin, how it was made, and how it is holding up in the bottle. Most important, color can tell you something about a wine’s authenticity. READ MORE »
