Winophilia

As a follow-up to my recent post about “natural winemaking,” I asked our esteemed panel of winemakers for their views on the role of sulfur dioxide in making and raising wines.

“Natural winemaking” is an issue of great interest these days to many consumers, not least because many wine journalists, retailers and sommeliers are touting its benefits. But they also may be tolerating wine flaws that might have been prevented by judicious use of sulfur dioxide. What do YOU view as the most important role of sulfur products in the winemaking and aging process—IF there is one?

Brian O’Donnell, Belle Pente (Oregon). It may be stating the obvious, but for me the role of SO2 is to avoid the aforementioned flaws that are often apparent in “no added sulfites” wines. These flaws result from oxidation and undesirable microbial activity that, as you say, can easily be inhibited by a moderate dose of sulfites at bottling. Although I embrace the philosophical intent of “no added sulfites” wines, I am not willing to compromise quality for the dubious perceived benefits of following that path. READ MORE »

What splurge wine (i.e., expensive, rare or just plain outstanding) are you looking forward to opening for the holidays, and what do you plan to serve with it?

Yves Cuilleron, Domaine Yves Cuilleron (Condrieu, France). Certainly for the holidays this year, I’ll open an old bottle because I was born the day after Christmas 50 years ago in 1961. I’m lucky because 1961 is one of the best vintages of the 20th century in France. So I’ll try two bottles from this vintage: one red wine, the Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Pauillac, certainly with game, and a bottle of the Arbois vin jaune Domaine de la Pinte 1961, with Comté. READ MORE »

What splurge wine (i.e., expensive, rare or just plain outstanding) are you looking forward to opening for the holidays, and what do you plan to serve with it?

Josh Bergström, Bergström Wines (Oregon). My wife and I have made a tradition out of enjoying great Pacific Northwest Dungeness crab and lobsters with great white Burgundies during the holidays. We buy the crabs and lobsters fresh and serve them with the traditional fixings of homemade aioli, melted butter and lemon wedges alongside toasted baguette and a simple butter lettuce salad that is heavy on shallots and garlic in a simple Dijon mustard vinaigrette (not too heavy on the vinegar.) It is with this simple but decadent meal that we enjoy with our family and friends the great grand cru and premier cru bottlings of chardonnay from Chablis and the Cote d’Or. The minerality and succulent acidity of the wines pair well with the richness of the crab and lobster as well as cutting the fat of the aioli and the butter for a wonderful, one-of-a-kind experience. READ MORE »

What’s the most important thing you have learned about grape-growing and/or winemaking this year?

Matt Donaldson, Pegasus Bay Winery (Waipara, New Zealand). I think we learned that if the season is totally awesome you can get away with carrying a higher crop level than would be ideal in an average year. The problem, of course, is that you can’t predict how the end of season is going to turn out at the time you need to do the green harvest, unless you have a crystal ball. READ MORE »