Winophilia: A Taste of the IWC

Unsung white wines from California’s Central Coast

Josh Raynolds — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 09:52:41 +0000

While red wines made in southern California from Rhône Valley varieties have been building a loyal following since the late 1990s, their white siblings, especially those made from or based on viognier, continue to be an insiders' secret. That's great news for savvy buyers as prices in most cases have yet to catch up with the quality the best wines can deliver. READ MORE »

Serious, affordable reds from Washington State

Stephen Tanzer — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 09:29:15 +0000

With big-name French and California reds beyond the budgets of most wine drinkers these days, except for special occasions, Washington’s red wines are looking better and better. Yes, a relative handful of the state’s top bottlings now retail for $60 or more, but the number of excellent values in the $20 to $30 range is greater than ever before, thanks in large part to a succession of successful vintages. Vintage 2008, in particular, produced vibrant, intense wines with lovely balance, thanks to a coolish growing season and a late, relaxed harvest that took place under excellent conditions. READ MORE »

Pinot bianco, the least known of Italy’s top whites

Ian D'Agata — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 10:06:51 +0000

Italy’s pinot bianco (called pinot blanc in France and weissburgunder in Germany) is arguably the best in the world. Aside from some excellent examples from Germany, nowhere else does the variety reach the level of purity and precision it does in northeastern Italy. A mutation of pinot grigio (which is in turn a mutation of pinot noir), pinot bianco is more floral, steely and mineral-driven than pinot grigio, which can be surprisingly fleshy and rich in its resiny, honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors. READ MORE »

Big house non-vintage Champagne

Josh Raynolds — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:11:01 +0000

Grower Champagnes—that is, Champagnes made by small, family-owned operations—are all the rage among hip wine folk these days. Unfortunately, some of the more rabid proponents of these wines attempt to promote their virtues at the expense of Champagnes produced by larger, usually corporate-owned houses, which produce the vast majority of wine in the region. To some people, "factory fizz," as opposed to "farmer fizz," means bland and soulless, while bubblies made by smaller wineries deliver greater character and pizzazz. As is almost always the case with wine, generalizations are dangerous, and that's especially true for non-vintage Champagnes, which account for the overwhelming majority of the region’s production. READ MORE »

Focus on Central Coast chardonnay

Josh Raynolds — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 09:58:19 +0000

It wasn't that long ago that the words "California chardonnay" and "elegant" were seldom uttered in the same sentence. But thanks to a growing number of visionary producers, things have definitely changed in recent years in California’s Central Coast, and some of the best examples of balanced, stylish New World chardonnay are now made here. READ MORE »

Focus on Central Coast pinot noir

Josh Raynolds — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 09:34:36 +0000

Most wine aficionados would agree that California's Central Coast, along with greater Sonoma Valley, Oregon's Willamette Valley and New Zealand, is one of the world’s most fertile regions for high-quality pinot noir outside of Burgundy. Much of the region is hot, but the section that sits north of Santa Barbara and extends up to Arroyo Grande can be downright cold, as well as wind-whipped thanks to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Chilly weather can extend well into April, delaying bud break, and steady ocean winds and a dry climate help to keep vine maladies at bay. Summers usually feature warm days and cool nights, which encourage slow maturation of the grapes, and Indian summer conditions typically give sugars a boost into the harvest. This weather pattern is ideal for the production of balanced, complex wines. READ MORE »

Standout white wines from Washington State

Stephen Tanzer — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:35:16 +0000

Most of Washington's grapes are grown in the desert east of the Cascade mountains. With summers frequently marked by blazing-hot daytime temperatures and annual rainfall so low that the vineyards must be irrigated, white wine is not the first thing that springs to mind. But generally cool September nights allow the grapes to retain healthy acidity, resulting in wines with noteworthy intensity of varietal character. Needless to say, acid retention is at least as much of a boon to white wines as it is to the cabernet-, merlot- and syrah-based reds on which Washington’s position in the world wine is based. READ MORE »

New-wave Rioja

Josh Raynolds — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 10:10:07 +0000

In the ’60s and ’70s the red wines of Rioja began to grab the attention of American wine lovers who appreciated the character of aged wines, particularly Bordeaux, but had neither the patience nor the cellar space to indulge in nurturing wines to maturity. The Rioja practice of giving the wines extended barrel-aging and holding them back until they were ready to drink proved highly attractive to savvy wine drinkers and continues to be one of the region's strong drawing cards. The fact that most Rioja back then could be bought for a song also didn't hurt. But popular tastes change, often quickly. READ MORE »

Standout pinot grigios from Italy

Ian D'Agata — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 10:19:15 +0000

Italy and Alsace are historically where the best pinot grigio wines are made. In Alsace, the grape and the wine are called pinot gris, but the two grapes are one and the same. Whereas Alsatian pinot gris is ripe and rich, often with considerable amounts of residual sugar even in wines described by the producers as dry, Italian pinot grigio is about freshness, typically delivering lighter, very dry flavors. READ MORE »

Old-school Rioja

Josh Raynolds — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:54:49 +0000

Although American consumers enjoy better access than ever before to wines from regions like Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Jumilla and Toro, Rioja still dominates most discussion of Spanish wine. And for the most part that attention is well-deserved. American wine drinkers are now spoiled for choice in Rioja at all price points, and the wines are well distributed here. Still, as I conducted my tastings of new releases from Spain for this year’s coverage in the International Wine Cellar, it became clear to me that many of today's Riojas would seem pretty unfamiliar to most long-time Spanish wine aficionados. READ MORE »