Stephen Tanzer's

Winophilia

While red wines made in southern California from Rhône Valley varieties have been building a loyal following since the late 1990s, their white siblings, especially those made from or based on viognier, continue to be an insiders’ secret. That’s great news for savvy buyers as prices in most cases have yet to catch up with the quality the best wines can deliver. READ MORE »

January 31st, 2012 | no comments

With big-name French and California reds beyond the budgets of most wine drinkers these days, except for special occasions, Washington’s red wines are looking better and better. Yes, a relative handful of the state’s top bottlings now retail for $60 or more, but the number of excellent values in the $20 to $30 range is greater than ever before, thanks in large part to a succession of successful vintages. Vintage 2008, in particular, produced vibrant, intense wines with lovely balance, thanks to a coolish growing season and a late, relaxed harvest that took place under excellent conditions. READ MORE »

January 25th, 2012 | no comments

Italy’s pinot bianco (called pinot blanc in France and weissburgunder in Germany) is arguably the best in the world. Aside from some excellent examples from Germany, nowhere else does the variety reach the level of purity and precision it does in northeastern Italy. A mutation of pinot grigio (which is in turn a mutation of pinot noir), pinot bianco is more floral, steely and mineral-driven than pinot grigio, which can be surprisingly fleshy and rich in its resiny, honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors. READ MORE »

January 6th, 2012 | no comments

Grower Champagnes—that is, Champagnes made by small, family-owned operations—are all the rage among hip wine folk these days. Unfortunately, some of the more rabid proponents of these wines attempt to promote their virtues at the expense of Champagnes produced by larger, usually corporate-owned houses, which produce the vast majority of wine in the region. To some people, “factory fizz,” as opposed to “farmer fizz,” means bland and soulless, while bubblies made by smaller wineries deliver greater character and pizzazz. As is almost always the case with wine, generalizations are dangerous, and that’s especially true for non-vintage Champagnes, which account for the overwhelming majority of the region’s production. READ MORE »

December 29th, 2011 | no comments