Winophilia: Josh Raynolds

Unsung white wines from California’s Central Coast

Josh Raynolds — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 09:52:41 +0000

While red wines made in southern California from Rhône Valley varieties have been building a loyal following since the late 1990s, their white siblings, especially those made from or based on viognier, continue to be an insiders' secret. That's great news for savvy buyers as prices in most cases have yet to catch up with the quality the best wines can deliver. READ MORE »

Domaine Le Couroulu 2009 Vacqueyras Cuvée Classique

Josh Raynolds — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 09:25:06 +0000

Why should you care? When it comes to southern Rhône wines, collectors, sommeliers and, yes, wine writers tend to focus most of their attention on Châteauneuf du Pape, whose wines are among the most prestigious of France. But savvy enophiles have long known that great wines are also made in some of the appellations that surround Châteauneuf, particularly Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The dominant variety in both villages is grenache, just as in Châteauneuf, but the wines are typically more elegant and less brawny than those of their famous neighbor—and a lot less expensive. They also tend to be approachable sooner after release than most Châteauneufs, which is great news for drinkers looking for quick gratification.

What does it taste like? Domaine Le Couroulu's wines are always among the most stylish and vibrant examples of Vacqueyras, and they have the balance to age too, if you’re the patient type. Their entry-level 2009, from an excellent vintage across the Rhône Valley, shows spicy red and black fruit flavors, a silky texture and uncommon complexity for its price.

How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $21; Russell Herman/World Wine Source; Adventures in Wine

Uncommon red wine bargains from Spain, part two

Josh Raynolds — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 10:08:41 +0000

In the course of my tastings each year of thousands of new wine releases for the International Wine Cellar, I run into plenty of great values. But no other country offers as many as Spain does, or with such consistency. READ MORE »

Big house non-vintage Champagne

Josh Raynolds — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:11:01 +0000

Grower Champagnes—that is, Champagnes made by small, family-owned operations—are all the rage among hip wine folk these days. Unfortunately, some of the more rabid proponents of these wines attempt to promote their virtues at the expense of Champagnes produced by larger, usually corporate-owned houses, which produce the vast majority of wine in the region. To some people, "factory fizz," as opposed to "farmer fizz," means bland and soulless, while bubblies made by smaller wineries deliver greater character and pizzazz. As is almost always the case with wine, generalizations are dangerous, and that's especially true for non-vintage Champagnes, which account for the overwhelming majority of the region’s production. READ MORE »

Focus on Central Coast chardonnay

Josh Raynolds — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 09:58:19 +0000

It wasn't that long ago that the words "California chardonnay" and "elegant" were seldom uttered in the same sentence. But thanks to a growing number of visionary producers, things have definitely changed in recent years in California’s Central Coast, and some of the best examples of balanced, stylish New World chardonnay are now made here. READ MORE »

Focus on Central Coast pinot noir

Josh Raynolds — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 09:34:36 +0000

Most wine aficionados would agree that California's Central Coast, along with greater Sonoma Valley, Oregon's Willamette Valley and New Zealand, is one of the world’s most fertile regions for high-quality pinot noir outside of Burgundy. Much of the region is hot, but the section that sits north of Santa Barbara and extends up to Arroyo Grande can be downright cold, as well as wind-whipped thanks to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Chilly weather can extend well into April, delaying bud break, and steady ocean winds and a dry climate help to keep vine maladies at bay. Summers usually feature warm days and cool nights, which encourage slow maturation of the grapes, and Indian summer conditions typically give sugars a boost into the harvest. This weather pattern is ideal for the production of balanced, complex wines. READ MORE »

Beaujolais rising

Josh Raynolds — Sun, 04 Dec 2011 10:04:19 +0000

No French wine region aside from Alsace has been more in need of a shot in the arm in the American market in recent years than Beaujolais. Through the early 1980s Beaujolais was among the most popular European wines in the U.S. Most of it was in the form of Beaujolais Nouveau, which is quickly fermented, then bottled and released in short order—on the third Thursday of November, to be exact. Part of Nouveau's appeal, aside from being cheap, fruity and downright gulpable, was that these bottles were always the first wines of a particular vintage to be released. READ MORE »

New-wave Rioja

Josh Raynolds — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 10:10:07 +0000

In the ’60s and ’70s the red wines of Rioja began to grab the attention of American wine lovers who appreciated the character of aged wines, particularly Bordeaux, but had neither the patience nor the cellar space to indulge in nurturing wines to maturity. The Rioja practice of giving the wines extended barrel-aging and holding them back until they were ready to drink proved highly attractive to savvy wine drinkers and continues to be one of the region's strong drawing cards. The fact that most Rioja back then could be bought for a song also didn't hurt. But popular tastes change, often quickly. READ MORE »

The Ojai Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County

Josh Raynolds — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:36:41 +0000

Why should you care? Adam Tolmach helped to kickstart California's Central Coast wine industry when he and Jim Clendenen founded the Au Bon Climat winery in 1982. Tolmach has long been committed full-time to his own Ojai Vineyard winery, where he makes a wide range of elegant wines from some of the most renowned vineyards in the region. Most of his bottlings are hotly pursued by wine lovers who prize lively, precise renditions of New World chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. From two of those vineyards, Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills, both in Santa Barbara County, Tolmach makes this chardonnay, which is sourced from younger vines and delivers the Ojai style at a bargain price.

What does it taste like? Bright, focused and fragrant, this chardonnay offers an array of floral and citrus fruit qualities that are the hallmark of the region. Tolmach says that his aim is always to make focused, graceful wines with little excess fat, and the 2009 vintage gave him fruit that was perfectly suited to his style.

How much does it cost? $26.

Uncommon red wine bargains from Spain

Josh Raynolds — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 09:18:28 +0000

For years I've been telling International Wine Cellar subscribers that no country or region on earth can match Spain for red wine values. If anything, I found even more remarkable buys during my annual tastings of new Spanish releases in recent months.

Spain has two key advantages that enable it to produce high-quality red wine across much of the country. First, its mostly warm, dry climate produces consistently ripe grapes, prevents most vine diseases, and normally allows for a dry harvest. Second, large swaths of land are planted to older vines, which yield more concentrated, flavorful wines. Luckily for American wine drinkers, a growing number of American importers are latching onto Spain's potential and now bringing in a variety of wines that deliver astonishing bang for the buck. READ MORE »