Stephen Tanzer's

Winophilia

Why should you care? Although DeLille Cellars is best known for its stunningly pure red wines from Bordeaux and Rhone Valley/Southern French varieties, its white wines have also been on fire in recent vintages. While these wines are a bit beyond the normal price range of casual drinkers looking for immediately accessible bargains, they’re also way beyond these wines in quality and complexity. In fact, in their density and sophistication of texture, their energy and their ageability they should more appropriately be compared with their French counterparts, which are usually much more expensive.

What does it taste like? The 2012 Doyenne Roussanne Red Mountain is a knockout. A bright yellow in color, it projects a savory, spicy, earthy nose that reminded me of sake. Tactile and very slightly sweet, it offers nuanced flavors of beeswax, honeysuckle, pepper and flowers. Limey acidity gives terrific inner-mouth cut and tension to this sappy white wine. This ripe, intense roussanne finishes subtle and long, with a fascinating umami texture that should make it extremely versatile at the dinner table. By the way, if you happen to run across the 2011 version, it’s every bit as good: perhaps a bit fruitier and more exotic but fleshy, dry and vibrant. My score for both vintages: 92 points.

How much does it cost? $38

October 22nd, 2013 | no comments

Leave a Reply

*