Why should you care? This estate’s Châteauneuf du Pape bottlings are among France’s most sought-after wines, with prices that reflect strong worldwide demand. The Lirac region is located southwest of Châteauneuf du Pape and is planted to a similar blend of varieties, but the wines have cruised under the radar of most American wine lovers in spite of their quality. As prices for wines from France’s boutique—and thus frequently overpriced—wine regions creep up, it pays to know where the smart money is heading and to follow it.
What does it taste like? Made from a 50/50 blend of grenache and syrah, Domaine de la Mordorée’s 2009 Lirac Rouge La Dame Rousse offers intense dark berry, cherry-cola and licorice aromas and flavors and a suave blend of power and finesse. Many wines from the warm 2009 vintage show impressive richness but lack elegance, but that’s not the case here. What Mordorée’s Lirac may lack in power and density compared to this producer’s marquee Châteauneufs is made up for by vivacity, not to mention a much lower price.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $24; Kysela Père et Fils.

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