Why should you care? Two thousand ten in Chablis, as in the rest of Burgundy, is a vintage for the purist and neophyte alike. A small crop of grapes yielded highly concentrated wines with the mineral and floral high notes, piquant acidity, and dusty, extract-rich soil tones that fans of these wines crave. But for wine lovers who require plenty of fresh fruit in their chardonnays as well, the 2010s have that element in spades too. The vintage offers a rare combination of full ripeness and lively acidity, and very few 2010s have begun their lives in bottle with the toothrattling austerity that classic Chablis from cooler years often displays.
What does it taste like? Chablis is much less expensive than white wines from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, and the top village wines can offer stunning value. William Fèvre’s 2010 Chablis (note that the wine I’m recommending clearly says “Domaine” William Fevre on the label), a refreshing pale yellow-green color, offers cool aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers, minerals and spices followed by the flavor intensity and texture of a premier cru. Its tactile, persistent finish makes it a gripping and flexible white wine for the dinner table.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? ($29; Henriot, Inc.)