With big-name French and California reds beyond the budgets of most wine drinkers these days, except for special occasions, Washington’s red wines are looking better and better. Yes, a relative handful of the state’s top bottlings now retail for $60 or more, but the number of excellent values in the $20 to $30 range is greater than ever before, thanks in large part to a succession of successful vintages. Vintage 2008, in particular, produced vibrant, intense wines with lovely balance, thanks to a coolish growing season and a late, relaxed harvest that took place under excellent conditions.
My extensive tastings last summer and fall for my annual report on Washington State in Issue 159 of the International Wine Cellar featured hundreds of the best of these reds. Here’s a taste of some of the best values I found. All of these wines merited scores of 90 or higher in the IWC. I have included wines from Bordeaux varieties as well as a few syrahs. Some of these bottlings are made in limited quantities, and the local Washington market avidly supports the state’s better producers. But these wines can usually be found in the retail marketplace, or even purchased directly from the wineries. My recommended bottles will make good matches for winter far, but there’s no hurry to consume any of these items.
The 2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley ($28; 15.1% alcohol) offers sweet, inviting aromas of black raspberry, mocha, minerals, tobacco and mint complemented by ripe soil tones. It’s silky, plush and shapely, with ripe acidity giving an element of refinement to the concentrated flavors of cassis, black plum and dark chocolate. This classy cabernet’s finish is ripely tannic, lively and long.
The 2007 Basel Cellars Merlot Estate Pheasant Run Vineyard Walla Walla Valley ($28) offers perfumed, high-toned aromas of cherry, currant, graphite, spices and sexy cedary oak. It’s lush and chocolatey yet conveys a juicy character to its red berry and spice flavors. Suave, mouth-saturating merlot with excellent length and grip.
Long one of Washington’s red wine masters, Mike Januik makes wines under his eponymous label as well as less expensive bottlings under the Novelty Hill moniker. His 2008 Novelty Hill Royal Slope Red Columbia Valley ($18), a blend based on 59% merlot, boasts terrific palate presence for its gentle price. Aromas of cassis, black cherry and licorice lead to a supple, generous palate, with broad but shapely flavors of black fruits, licorice and minerals. The wine expands nicely on the back end, finishing with substantial but even tannins and very good length.
Cadaretta’s southern Rhône blend is an even more sensational value. The 2008 Windthrow Red Wine Columbia Valley ($14) shows aromas of strawberry, redcurrant, mocha, brown spices and flowers. It’s supple, nicely sweet and concentrated, with a long, plush finish showing serious tongue-dusting tannins and a solid structure to support some further development in bottle.
Washington is also a rich source for syrahs at affordable prices. The 2008 Januik Winery Syrah Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley ($30), one of the best vintages to date for this perennial winner, offers knockout aromas of black raspberry, cocoa powder, game and leather, with a complementary oaky element. It’s silky and supple on entry, then smooth and seamless in the middle, with lovely harmonious acidity giving it shape and energy. The long, brisk finish features smooth tannins.
The deeply colored 2008 Woodinville Wine Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley ($30) boasts expressive, varietally accurate aromas of blackberry, smoked meat and licorice. It’s juicy, savory and intense, with lovely lift and a chewy, saline quality to the flavors of cassis, blackberry and bitter chocolate. The long, sweet finish features substantial firm but suave tannins and excellent lift.
Finally, the 2008 L’Ecole No. 41 Syrah Columbia Valley ($25) entices with scents of black raspberry, violet, licorice and smoke. It’s sweet, pure and primary, with lovely verve to its concentrated dark berry and violet flavors. This dense, serious wine shows a slightly candied fruit character and finishes with excellent purity and length. It’s hard to believe this syrah is carrying 15% alcohol.
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