Why should you care? Known barely a decade ago for tired, often overoaked, rusty-looking white wines, Spain has become a rich source for lively whites. Most bracing are those from the country’s cooler, Atlantic-influenced northwest, especially from Rueda and Rías Baixas. In Rueda the verdejo variety rules, although the region has long been planted to sauvignon blanc as well. (These grapes share a strong affinity and are often blended.) Verdejo typically shows bright lemon and lime character, with notes of herbs, white flowers and minerals. These mostly oak-free wines are at their best in the year immediately after release.
What does it taste like? This textbook Rueda verdejo, a classic version from an unusually warm vintage, offers zesty lime, grapefruit and ginger character, with a strong undercurrent of minerals. Its fresh citrus qualities make it delicious on its own and compatible with a range of hot-weather foods, especially vegetables and simply prepared fish. Make sure you buy a little extra because this wine has a habit of evaporating around thirsty people.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $14; Olé Imports.

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