Why should you care? New Zealand’s ocean-influenced climate—markedly cooler than that of its neighbor Australia—is ideal for the production of wines with intense fruit and crisp acidity. White wines, especially sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, dominate exports to the U.S. But the country’s rieslings are also varietally accurate and delicious. In spite of their normally brisk acidity, they are rarely austere or difficult to enjoy in their youth; in fact, many of these wines are softened by some residual sugar. Spy Valley’s wines are flamboyantly supple, fruit-driven and user-friendly.
What does it taste like? Spy Valley’s premium Envoy range comes from specific vineyard sites within the greater family estate. Their 2007 riesling, made from Germanic clones, is in a silky, sweeter style (think German spätlese) but with perfect balancing acidity. It offers the distinctly fusel quality shown by many top rieslings from Germany, Australia and elsewhere, along with concentrated apricot and passion fruit flavors, exotic brown spices and a suggestion of honeyed richness. This compellingly pure and immediately appealing wine makes a perfect aperitif—or try it with fresh scallops or sweet and sour Asian dishes.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $35; Broadbent Selections.
