Winophilia

Many sommeliers enjoy unwinding with a beer after a full workday spent talking about wine with clients, matching wines to dishes, tasting wine, drinking wine….wine, wine, wine. Can you tell us your favorite beer these days, and what you like about it? Don’t feel that it needs to be a high-falutin’ beer either; if your favorite place serves cold Schlitz on tap and that’s what you gravitate toward, then say so.  And don’t hesitate to provide some very brief background info on your selection or a short tasting note. 

Daniel Johnnes, Wine Director, Daniel Boulud’s Dinex Group (New York City). Nothing fancy from me: I like to support my neighborhood, Brooklyn, and a nice cold Brooklyn Brewery Pennant Ale hits the spot. As for draft, the best I’ve had all year is, believe it or not, a drawn pint of Pilsner Urquell at Milan Czech restaurant in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. The owner has a method by which he draws the beer and lets the head settle down a minimum of three times or until it can hold a toothpick upright on the surface for at least three seconds.

Timothy Wilson, Director of Beverage, The Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group (Las Vegas). I have yet to taste better beers than those from Private Landbrauerei Schönram in Upper Bavaria (which has been brewing since 1780). Every beer they produce is at the top of its category. These are very elegant beers, with floral hints of rose petal, violet and lavender from the single strain of barley malt used. Their basic Munich Helles is superb for everyday quaffing. Their Festweisse (wheat beer) is made from a very traditional recipe which yields delicate flavors of hazelnut and chestnut. This beer rivals even those from Weissebrauerei Hopf, which is the best wheat beer brewery of them all. The Schönramer Pils is as good as any Pilsner you’ll taste from anywhere: the aromatic hops give a hint of bitterness on the nose but do not dry out the palate. The “jewel in the crown” is definitely the Schönramer Gold. It is so perfectly balanced and its flavors are so subtle that it usually takes several sessions with this beer to fully grasp how amazing it really is.

The vast majority of American beer drinkers who typically consume the commercial crap brewed by Budweiser, Miller and even the vaunted “quality regional” breweries such as Sam Adams, Yuengling and New Belgium don’t appreciate these Bavarian beers—much the same way that those who drink sweet and oaky California chardonnays don’t fully grasp the subtlety and restraint of Chablis or Mosel riesling. Most of the rest of American beer drinkers consist of the “micro-brew connoisseurs.” This is the consumer typically enamored with “India Pale Ales” – those extremely over-hopped, high-alcohol beers such as those brewed by Stone, Dogfish Head and Rogue. This group will probably never fully understand the delicate subtlety and complexity of the world-class beers made in Bavaria—the same way Turley zinfandel drinkers will probably never appreciate Barolo or Burgundy.

Linda Violago, Sommelier, Trio (Malmo, Sweden). I am not really a beer drinker, although I like to taste different ones. From time to time, I do like a good Kriek [a Belgian cherry beer], but that is not really something for every day. When in Burgundy, after a full day of tasting, I do go to Au Bout du Monde and have a Kriek, the running joke being that I like wines that are red and then drink a red beer.

It wasn’t until I lived in Spain that I started drinking beer on a regular basis. There, they have a version of a shandy—beer and soda water—that is called a clara. You can also have it made with Kas Limón, which is like a lemon crush. Depending on the region, the drink has different names. In Catalunya, it is called a champu. You wouldn’t order it this way in Barcelona—they’d make fun of you. In Basque country, it is called lejia, which is also the Spanish word for “bleach.” Just a cheap beer and a hit of lemon, but it’s very refreshing at the end of the day or perfect with tapas.

Rajat Parr, Wine Director, Mina Group (San Francisco). I always stick to Trumer Pilsner, a brew from Salzburg that is made in Berkeley. It’s fresh and vibrant and the best beer in my mind.

Elise Loehr, Proprietor/Wine Director, F. Scott’s Restaurant & Jazz Bar (Nashville, TN). My Sunday evening (a.k.a. my day off) Brew Short List 2010:

Georg Schneider’s Wiesen Edel-Weisse, Germany (organic): Classic Hefeweizen notes of ripe banana, clove, some lemon zest, and a bit of pepper with a fresh spiciness. My favorite anytime, and it’s organic to boot! Try it with your breakfast eggs or omelet, or with a roasted onion & Gouda tart.

Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock, Germany: Dark lager with a rich milky texture; buttery toffee aromas mingle with slightly chalky, earthy notes. Terrific with a rich clam chowder or oyster stew and of course with cassoulet.

Unibroue “La Fin du Monde,” Québec, Canada: Belgian Tripel style: nectarine, clove and pepper aromas and flavors; bright effervescence. A great match with sharp cheeses.

Victory Prima Pils, Pennsylvania: Drinks more like an intense IPA than a classic Pilsner; bright hoppy herbaceousness (yes…that kind) and zingy citrus flavors. Pretty good with almost everything at Bombay Palace.

Hitachino Nest Real Ginger Brew, Ibaraki, Japan: Amber-colored, with iced coffee, caramelized sugar and dried lemon peel aromas; dry and almost lemony on the finish, with a soft creamy texture. Delicious with French onion soup.

Chuck Furuya, Master Sommelier, DK Restaurants (Honolulu). When on the Island of Maui stop by Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar within the Kapalua Resort and have a cold beer, either by itself or with some of the highly creative, contemporary sushi. One of our favorite beers is the light, crisp and completely refreshing Bikini Blond from the Maui Brewing Company. This lager-styled beer is really ideal for warm-weather sipping.