Why should you care? Corton-Charlemagne, which can technically come from several grand cru vineyards on the Corton hill, has often been described as a white wine for red wine lovers. With its youthfully austere citrus, green apple and spice flavors, steely minerality and powerful acid spine, the best examples need at least six to eight years to mature in bottle and are capable of long life. Bouchard’s nearly nine acres of chardonnay vines in the high-altitude, limestone-rich Le Corton climat benefit from good air movement and a southeast exposure, allowing the house to pick healthy grapes with full ripeness and firm acidity. Previously an underperformer, Bouchard’s Corton-Charlemagne has become one of the most consistently exciting white Burgundies over the past decade. And it’s cheap for a topnotch grand cru white.
What does it taste like? The 2008 seduces with its ineffable scents of violet, lavender, lemon, crushed rock, mint, cinnamon and ginger. Though youthfully tight, there’s already compelling perfume and lift to its deep citrus, spice and mineral flavors. As in recent vintages, it’s explosively rich yet somehow weightless—and long on personality even in its youth.
How much does it cost, and where can you find it? $122; Henriot Inc.
