Winophilia

Chianti may be Italy’s best known wine: wines from Clantum were already being written about in the 11th century. Per the rules of the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), sangiovese must constitute 80% or more of the final blend, with up to 20% other grapes allowed, including pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, or local varieties like canaiolo nero and malvasia nera. Chianti no longer contains white grapes, as it did when it was invented back in the 19th century by Baron Ricasoli, or even up to the 1980s, when these grapes were gradually phased out in an effort to allow for greater longevity.

Chianti is meant to be a refreshing, everyday table wine that, thanks to high acidity and light alcohol levels, goes marvelously well with food. Typical aromas and flavors of Chianti include sour red cherry, redcurrant, violet, black tea leaf and licorice. As Chianti ages—and the best examples can evolve in bottle for 30 or 40 years—it develops strong underbrush and woodsy elements that add finesse and complexity to the overall sensory experience.

There are various categories of Chianti, from an entry-level wine to a riserva (made with the best grapes and usually aged in oak for a longer period of time). Wine lovers looking for a light, fresh wine will normally opt for the former, while those looking for a richer, more ageworthy wine will choose the latter. There are also single-vineyard bottlings made from the estates’ best sites. No other wine in Italy, not even Barolo or Brunello, has the ability to produce as spectacular a range of wines as Chianti.

I covered new releases from Chianti, as well as wines from Montepulciano, in depth in the new issue of the International Wine Cellar.  Below I have singled out some of my favorite reasonably priced bottles to try. My list of recommended wines includes a generically labelled Chianti. While such wines are often extremely disappointing, the example listed below is a standout. And although Classico and Rufina are usually the best of all (the former potentially the richest and most profound of all Chiantis, the latter, produced from vines grown in higher, cooler sites, lighter and more refined), the two excellent examples from Colli Fiorentini and Colli Senesi below also merit a try.

Castello di Farnetella 2008 Chianti Colli Senesi. Made by the folks at Felsina, one of Italy’s top dozen wine estates, this is a Colli Senesi that is actually worth a look.  A little merlot helps to flesh out the higher-acid sangiovese. ($16; Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; Wine Warehouse, Richmond, CA; Bacchus Imports, Baltimore, MD)

Le Cinciole 2007 Chianti Classico. It’s hard to argue with greatness: for my money, this is one of the better expressions of sangiovese from anywhere in Italy. And it makes a superb introduction to Chianti Classico. ($30; A Marc de Grazia Selection; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

Frescobaldi 2007 Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva. From the cooler Rufina area, this wine is a smashing value given that it’s a riserva, and it ages well. It’s slightly more herbal than most, with hints of black fruits as well as red berries. ($22; Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA)

Giacomo Mori 2008 Chianti. All the bad things often said about generic Chianti disappear with one taste of this wine, which bursts with yummy red berry, licorice and herbal aromas and flavors. ($20; A Marc de Grazia Selection; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

Isole e Olena 2007 Chianti Classico. Cepparello is one of Italy’s best wines, but don’t miss out on the Chianti Classico from this estate, an archetypal example of the category. The 2007 is brimming with red berry and sour red cherry flavors, and its creamy fruit and smooth tannins are typical of this warmer vintage. ($25; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; Grape Expectations, Richmond, CA)

Selvapiana 2006 Chianti Rufina. The Bucerchiale Riserva is more famous, but Selvapiana’s entry-level Chianti is one of the best as well.  This wine showcases the tell-tale high acidity of the cooler Chianti Rufina subregion, offering enticing redcurrant, red cherry and mineral aromas and flavors.  It should also age splendidly for a decade or more.  ($18; Dalla Terra, Napa, CA)