Why should you care? Our own Northwest is a terrific source of lively, moderately priced pinot gris. These wines offer affordable, and often drier, alternatives to examples from Alsace. While most of the best American examples are from Oregon, this Washington State bottling from Ross Andrew Winery demonstrates the way a cool site (the vineyard is 1,300 feet above the Columbia Gorge, on deep volcanic soils) can yield dense, fresh wines in a very warm vintage. A long, cool fermentation in stainless steel further preserved the wine’s vibrancy.
What does it taste like? The fruit-driven nose showcases the classic Celilo Vineyard note of nectarine, lifted by a whiff of orange peel. The palate impression is lush and ripe, with density and depth reflecting the fact that the vines here are 25 to 32 years of age, downright ancient by Washington standards. The exhilarating nectarine quality carries through to the long, firm-edged finish. There’s a captivating sweetness of fruit here but the wine is technically dry.
How much does it cost? $18
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